A true preppy classic, the Norwegian sweater was originally designed as a way of keeping Norwegian fishermen warm whilst out at sea. Being a practical and well put-together garment preppies have adopted these sweaters as necessary skiwear. You'll see loads of these on the slopes at Aspen or Gstaad!
Outlandish snowflake designs and reindeer designs do make for fantastic Christmas jumpers but the classiest of the lot is this sweater from L.L. Bean. One of the most coveted preppy items of all time but hard to find these days. Pick up one if you see one and you won't be disappointed... this sweater will last forever! I bring mine everytime I go skiing or even if the weather takes a slight turn.
If you're feeling brave why not have a go at knitting your own!
The classic bird’s eye knit, heavy wool sweater has achieved iconic status for its aesthetic appeal, durability and comfort. It’s capacity to sustain all that the world can throw at it has fostered something of a cult following, particularly amongst those who subscribe to American Trad/Ivy League or preppy sensibilities, however you are just as likely to see a well-worn example on those hardy fisherman and sailors of the North Atlantic, from Norway to New England.
When we think of the Norwegian Sweater, a very specific image comes to mind The original design was born in Norway where similar knits have long-since been the preferred means of keeping warm for seamen, in a similar vein to Aran or Fair Isle knits of Ireland and Scotland and the various woolen smocks of the West Country, Brittany, Normandy and the Channel Islands. Whilst legend has it that different knitters in different fishing communities would maintain their own signature patterns which would, God forbid, help with identifying bodies at sea should it’s wearer succumb to misfortune and the might of the sea.
However, one design above all has become the preferred pattern and the hallmark of both preppies and workwear aficionados alike.
In 1965, famed American outdoor outfitter L.L. Bean decided to source such a sweater to be sold under their own label to their mail-order customers. The lattice design Norwegian Crewneck sweater fast became a must-have for outdoor enthusiasts and American preppies alike, with a loyal burgeoning customer base in Europe too who coveted the same. In particular, the navy blue sweater with white detailing became a best-seller for the company with other colours (the reverse colorway of white sweater with navy blue detailing especially), also proving popular. Some customers even went as far to attempt to collect all colors. The L.L. Bean model had, perhaps, it’s heydey in the late 1970s and early 1980s, even being explicitly referenced in the Official Preppy Handbook where it was recognised as the “nearest thing to a prep membership card...”, much to the amusement and bemusement of Scandinavian fishermen who have been wearing them for near-on a century.
L.L. Bean initially sourced the sweater from a Norwegian maker with the original design being a mixture of unscoured wool (80%) and rayon (20%) as plastics were widely hailed, at that time, as a means for improving durability and versatility. Unscoured wool allows for exposure to the elements and, particularly, to seawater without significant wearing out. The bird’s eye knit using such wool has the added benefit of being relatively quick drying meaning that it’s intended wearer (fishermen) could be assured that the sweater would keep them warm and maintain functionality without becoming excessively wet and heavy due to water saturation. The result is an extremely warm sweater that is best worn on cold and snowy days, preferably aprés-ski.
Whilst L.L. Bean has always remained largely secret about which maker they have used (likely for commercial reasons), the renowned Norlender company has been making such sweaters since 1927. Indeed, when L.L. Bean decided to outsource manufacturing to a company based in China during the 1980s, many discerning buyers sought out the higher quality, all-wool models made by Norlender. The decision to outsource manufacturing to China would hurt L.L. Bean greatly as many customers eschewed the much poorer quality and material, with the Chinese-made models quickly losing shape and demonstrating poor life-spans compared to the Norwegian-made original.
L.L. Bean took the decision in the late 1980s to retire the sweater, much to the chagrin of a very loyal customer base who would have preferred to see the company continue the model but returning to their original supplier. Sporadically, L.L. Bean have re-introduced an all-wool, Norwegian-made version and, at the time of writing, the sweater, marketed as the ‘Heritage Sweater, Norwegian Crewneck’, is currently for sale through L.L. Bean’s website.
In keeping with the sweater’s reputation for durability there is a substantial market in vintage sales with many fine examples available for sale on eBay and through thrift stores, goodwill shops and vintage dealers. Particularly in demand are the original models made under the L.L. Bean label from it’s introduction in 1965 through to the mid 1980s as they, generally, have a more relaxed shoulder and wider armhole than modern variants. Similarly, a change to the dye used to color the wool has resulted in a different shade of navy blue on the modern models as compared to the original colorways, modern versions being significantly darker.
The simplicity and elegance of the design and the variety of colors available underlies the appeal of this iconic sweater with hipsters who adhere to a strict heritage workwear aesthetic as well as yachties and preppies who are fond of wearing over the shoulders on a breezy day or over an Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt or popped collar polo shirt in late Autumn/Fall or Winter.
Notwithstanding the popularity of the L.L. Bean model, those seeking out heritage workwear and knitwear can find versions on Amazon or might also go directly to Norlender or to Dale of Norway (knitwear makers since 1879 and also rumored, at one time, to be a supplier to L.L. Bean). Brand new models can be quite expensive albeit that they are long-lasting enough to easily justify their cost. Pre-owned versions are widely available on eBay.